OUR supper was eaten with ease and rapidity,after which everybody did the best he could for himself within the hollow of the crater.The bed was hard,the shelter unsatisfactory,the situation painful-lying in the open air,five thousand feet above the level of the sea!
Nevertheless,it has seldom happened to me to sleep so well as I did on that particular night.I did not even dream.So much for the effects of what my uncle called "wholesome fatigue."Next day,when we awoke under the rays of a bright and glorious sun,we were nearly frozen by the keen air.I left my granite couch and made one of the party to enjoy a view of the magnificent spectacle which developed itself,panorama-like,at our feet.
I stood upon the lofty summit of Mount Sneffels'southern peak.
Thence I was able to obtain a view of the greater part of the island.The optical delusion,common to all lofty heights,raised the shores of the island,while the central portions appeared depressed.It was by no means too great a flight of fancy to believe that a giant picture was stretched out before me.I could see the deep valleys that crossed each other in every direction.I could see precipices looking like sides of wells,lakes that seemed to be changed into ponds,ponds that looked like puddles,and rivers that were transformed into petty brooks.To my right were glaciers upon glaciers,and multiplied peaks,topped with light clouds of smoke.
The undulation of these infinite numbers of mountains,whose snowy summits make them look as if covered by foam,recalled to my remembrance the surface of a storm-beaten ocean.If I looked towards the west,the ocean lay before me in all its majestic grandeur,a continuation as it were,of these fleecy hilltops.
Where the earth ended and the sea began it was impossible for the eye to distinguish.
I soon felt that strange and mysterious sensation which is awakened in the mind when looking down from lofty hilltops,and now I was able to do so without any feeling of nervousness,having fortunately hardened myself to that kind of sublime contemplation.
I wholly forgot who I was,and where I was.I became intoxicated with a sense of lofty sublimity,without thought of the abysses into which my daring was soon about to plunge me.I was presently,however,brought back to the realities of life by the arrival of the Professor and Hans,who joined me upon the lofty summit of the peak.
My uncle,turning in a westerly direction,pointed out to me a light cloud of vapor,a kind of haze,with a faint outline of land rising out of the waters.
"Greenland!"said he.
"Greenland?"cried I in reply.
"Yes,"continued my uncle,who always when explaining anything spoke as if he were in a professor's chair;"we are not more than thirty-five leagues distant from that wonderful land.When the great annual breakup of the ice takes place,white bears come over to Iceland,carried by the floating masses of ice from the north.This,however,is a matter of little consequence.We are now on the summit of the great,the transcendent Sneffels,and here are its two peaks,north and south.Hans will tell you the name by which the people of Iceland call that on which we stand."My uncle turned to the imperturbable guide,who nodded,and spoke as usual-one word.
"Scartaris."
My uncle looked at me with a proud and triumphant glance.
"A crater,"he said,"you hear?"
I did hear,but I was totally unable to make reply.
The crater of Mount Sneffels represented an inverted cone,the gaping orifice apparently half a mile across;the depth indefinite feet.Conceive what this hole must have been like when full of flame and thunder and lightning.The bottom of the funnel-shaped hollow was about five hundred feet in circumference,by which it will be seen that the slope from the summit to the bottom was very gradual,and we were therefore clearly able to get there without much fatigue or difficulty.Involuntarily,I compared this crater to an enormous loaded cannon;and the comparison completely terrified me.
"To descend into the interior of a cannon,"I thought to myself,"when perhaps it is loaded,and will go off at the least shock,is the act of a madman."But there was no longer any opportunity for me to hesitate.Hans,with a perfectly calm and indifferent air,took his usual post at the head of the adventurous little band.I followed without uttering a syllable.
I felt like the lamb led to the slaughter.
In order to render the descent less difficult,Hans took his way down the interior of the cone in rather a zigzag fashion,making,as the sailors say,long tracks to the eastward,followed by equally long ones to the west.It was necessary to walk through the midst of eruptive rocks,some of which,shaken in their balance,went rolling down with thundering clamor to the bottom of the abyss.These continual falls awoke echoes of singular power and effect.
Many portions of the cone consisted of inferior glaciers.Hans,whenever he met with one of these obstacles,advanced with a great show of precaution,sounding the soil with his long iron pole in order to discover fissures and layers of deep soft snow.In many doubtful or dangerous places,it became necessary for us to be tied together by a long rope in order that should any one of us be unfortunate enough to slip,he would be supported by his companions.This connecting link was doubtless a prudent precaution,but not by any means unattended with danger.
Nevertheless,and despite all the manifold difficulties of the descent,along slopes with which our guide was wholly unacquainted,we made considerable progress without accident.One of our great parcels of rope slipped from one of the Iceland porters,and rushed by a short cut to the bottom of the abyss.
By midday we were at the end of our journey.I looked upwards,and saw only the upper orifice of the cone,which served as a circular frame to a very small portion of the sky-a portion which seemed to me singularly beautiful.Should I ever again gaze on that lovely sunlit sky!