There stood Tangier before us, and a picturesque town it was, occupying the sides and top of two hills, one of which, bold and bluff, projects into the sea where the coast takes a sudden and abrupt turn.Frowning and battlemented were its walls, either perched on the top of precipitous rocks, whose base was washed by the salt billows, or rising from the narrow strand which separates the hill from the ocean.
Yonder are two or three tiers of batteries, displaying heavy guns which command the harbour; above them you see the terraces of the town rising in succession like steps for giants.But all is white, perfectly white, so that the whole seems cut out of an immense chalk rock, though true it is that you behold here and there tall green trees springing up from amidst the whiteness: perhaps they belong to Moorish gardens, and beneath them even now peradventure is reclining many a dark-eyed Leila, akin to the houries.Right before you is a high tower or minaret, not white but curiously painted, which belongs to the principal mosque of Tangier; a black banner waves upon it, for it is the feast of Ashor.A noble beach of white sand fringes the bay from the town to the foreland of Alminar.To the east rise prodigious hills and mountains; they are Gibil Muza and his chain; and yon tall fellow is the peak of Tetuan; the grey mists of evening are enveloping their sides.Such was Tangier, such its vicinity, as it appeared to me whilst gazing from the Genoese bark.
A boat was now lowered from the vessel, in which the captain, who was charged with the mail from Gibraltar, the Jew secretary, and the hadji and his attendant negroes departed for the shore.I would have gone with them, but I was told that Icould not land that night, as ere my passport and bill of health could be examined, the gates would be closed; so Iremained on board with the crew and the two Jews.The former prepared their supper, which consisted simply of pickled tomatoes, the other provisions having been consumed.The old Genoese brought me a portion, apologizing at the same time, for the plainness of the fare.I accepted it with thanks, and told him that a million better men than myself had a worse super.Inever ate with more appetite.As the night advanced, the Jews sang Hebrew hymns, and when they had concluded, demanded of me why I was silent, so I lifted up my voice and chanted Adun Oulem:-"Reigned the Universe's Master, ere were earthly things begun;When His mandate all created, Ruler was the name He won;And alone He'll rule tremendous when all things are past and gone, He no equal has, nor consort, He, the singular and lone, Has no end and no beginning; His the sceptre, might and throne.
He's my God and living Saviour, rock to whom in need Irun;
He's my banner and my refuge, fount of weal when called upon;In His hand I place my spirit at nightfall and rise of sun, And therewith my body also; God's my God - I fear no one."Darkness had now fallen over land and sea; not a sound was heard save occasionally the distant barking of a dog from the shore, or some plaintive Genoese ditty, which arose from a neighbouring bark.The town seemed buried in silence and gloom, no light, not even that of a taper, could be descried.