When the repast was concluded, Lopez thus addressed me:-"Senor Don Jorge, your arrival in our village has already caused a sensation, more especially as these are times of war and tumult, and every person is afraid of another, and we dwell here close on the confines of the factious country; for, as you well know, the greater part of La Mancha is in the hands of the Carlinos and thieves, parties of whom frequently show themselves on the other side of the river: on which account the alcalde of this city, with the other grave and notable people thereof, are desirous of seeing your worship, and conversing with you, and of examining your passport." "It is well," said I; "let us forthwith pay a visit to these worthy people."Whereupon he conducted me across the plaza, to the house of the alcalde, where I found the rustic dignitary seated in the passage, enjoying the refreshing coolness of a draught of air which rushed through.He was an elderly man, of about sixty, with nothing remarkable in his appearance or his features, which latter were placid and good-humoured.There were several people with him, amongst whom was the surgeon of the place, a tall and immensely bulky man, an Alavese by birth, from the town of Vitoria.There was also a red fiery-faced individual, with a nose very much turned on one side, who was the blacksmith of the village, and was called in general El Tuerto, from the circumstance of his having but one eye.Making the assembly a low bow, I pulled out my passport, and thus addressed them:-"Grave men and cavaliers of this city of Villa Seca, as Iam a stranger, of whom it is not possible that you should know anything, I have deemed it my duty to present myself before you, and to tell you who I am.Know, then, that I am an Englishman of good blood and fathers, travelling in these countries for my own profit and diversion, and for that of other people also.I have now found my way to Villa Seca, where I propose to stay some time, doing that which may be deemed convenient; sometimes riding across the plain, and sometimes bathing myself in the waters of the river, which are reported to be of advantage in times of heat, I therefore beg that, during my sojourn in this capital, I may enjoy such countenance and protection from its governors as they are in the habit of affording to those who are of quiet and well-ordered life, and are disposed to be buxom and obedient to the customs and laws of the republic.""He speaks well," said the alcalde, glancing around.
"Yes, he speaks well," said the bulky Alavese; "there is no denying it.""I never heard any one speak better," cried the blacksmith, starting up from a stool on which he was seated.
"Vaya! he is a big man and a fair complexioned like myself.Ilike him, and have a horse that will just suit him; one that is the flower of Spain, and is eight inches above the mark."I then, with another bow, presented my passport to the alcalde, who, with a gentle motion of his hand, appeared to decline taking it, at the same time saying, "It is not necessary." "Oh, not at all," exclaimed the surgeon."The housekeepers of Villa Seca know how to comport themselves with formality," observed the blacksmith."They would be very loth to harbour any suspicion against a cavalier so courteous and well spoken." Knowing, however, that this refusal amounted to nothing, and that it merely formed part of a polite ceremonial, I proffered the passport a second time, whereupon it was instantly taken, and in a moment the eyes of all present were bent upon it with intense curiosity.It was examined from top to bottom, and turned round repeatedly, and though it is not probable that an individual present understood a word of it, it being written in French, it gave nevertheless universal satisfaction; and when the alcalde, carefully folding it up, returned it to me, they all observed that they had never seen a better passport in their lives, or one which spake in higher terms of the bearer.
Who was it said that "Cervantes sneered Spain's chivalry away?" I know not; and the author of such a line scarcely deserves to be remembered.How the rage for scribbling tempts people at the present day to write about lands and nations of which they know nothing, or worse than nothing.Vaya! It is not from having seen a bull-fight at Seville or Madrid, or having spent a handful of ounces at a posada in either of those places, kept perhaps by a Genoese or a Frenchman, that you are competent to write about such a people as the Spaniards, and to tell the world how they think, how they speak, and how they act! Spain's chivalry sneered away! Why, there is every probability that the great body of the Spanish nation speak, think, and live precisely as their forefathers did six centuries ago.
In the evening the blacksmith, or, as he would be called in Spanish, El Herrador, made his appearance at the door of Lopez on horseback."Vamos, Don Jorge," he shouted."Come with me, if your worship is disposed for a ride.I am going to bathe my horse in the Tagus by the bridge of Azeca." Iinstantly saddled my jaca Cordovesa, and joining him, we rode out of the village, directing our course across the plain towards the river."Did you ever see such a horse as this of mine, Don Jorge?" he demanded."Is he not a jewel - an alaja?"And in truth the horse was a noble and gallant creature, in height at least sixteen hands, broad-chested, but of clean and elegant limbs.His neck was superbly arched, and his head towered on high like that of a swan.In colour he was a bright chestnut, save his flowing mane and tail, which were almost black.I expressed my admiration, whereupon the herrador, in high spirits, pressed his heels to the creature's sides, and flinging the bridle on its neck, speeded over the plain with prodigious swiftness, shouting the old Spanish cry, Cierra! Iattempted to keep up with him, but had not a chance."I call him the flower of Spain," said the herrador, rejoining me.