Lugo - The Baths - A Family History - Miguelets - The Three Heads -A Farrier - English Squadron - Sale of Testaments - Coruna -The Recognition - Luigi Piozzi - The Speculation - A Blank Prospect -John Moore.
At Lugo I found a wealthy bookseller, to whom I brought a letter of recommendation from Madrid.He willingly undertook the sale of my books.The Lord deigned to favour my feeble exertions in his cause at Lugo.I brought thither thirty Testaments, all of which were disposed of in one day; the bishop of the place, for Lugo is an episcopal see, purchasing two copies for himself, whilst several priests and ex-friars, instead of following the example of their brethren at Leon, by persecuting the work, spoke well of it and recommended its perusal.I was much grieved that my stock of these holy books was exhausted, there being a great demand; and had I been able to supply them, quadruple the quantity might have been sold during the few days that I continued at Lugo.
Lugo contains about six thousand inhabitants.It is situated on lofty ground, and is defended by ancient walls.It possesses no very remarkable edifice, and the cathedral church itself is a small mean building.In the centre of the town is the principal square, a light cheerful place, not surrounded by those heavy cumbrous buildings with which the Spaniards both in ancient and modern times have encircled their plazas.It is singular enough that Lugo, at present a place of very little importance, should at one period have been the capital of Spain: yet such it was in the time of the Romans, who, as they were a people not much guided by caprice, had doubtless very excellent reasons for the preference which they gave to the locality.
There are many Roman remains in the vicinity of this place, the most remarkable of which are the ruins of the ancient medicinal baths, which stand on the southern side of the river Minho, which creeps through the valley beneath the town.The Minho in this place is a dark and sullen stream, with high, precipitous, and thickly wooded banks.
One evening I visited the baths, accompanied by my friend the bookseller.They had been built over warm springs which flow into the river.Notwithstanding their ruinous condition, they were crowded with sick, hoping to derive benefit from the waters, which are still famed for their sanative power.These patients exhibited a strange spectacle as, wrapped in flannel gowns much resembling shrouds, they lay immersed in the tepid waters amongst disjointed stones, and overhung with steam and reek.
Three or four days after my arrival I was seated in the corridor which, as I have already observed, occupied the entire front of the house.The sky was unclouded, and the sun shone most gloriously, enlivening every object around.Presently the door of the apartment in which the strangers were lodged opened, and forth walked the whole family, with the exception of the father, who, I presumed, was absent on business.The shabby domestic brought up the rear, and on leaving the apartment, carefully locked the door, and secured the key in his pocket.The one son and the eleven daughters were all dressed remarkably well: the boy something after the English fashion, in jacket and trousers, the young ladies in spotless white: they were, upon the whole, a very good-looking family, with dark eyes and olive complexions, but the eldest daughter was remarkably handsome.They arranged themselves upon the benches of the corridor, the shabby domestic sitting down amongst them without any ceremony whatever.They continued for some time in silence, gazing with disconsolate looks upon the houses of the suburb and the dark walls of the town, until the eldest daughter, or senorita as she was called, broke silence with an "AY DIOS MIO!"DOMESTIC.- AY DIOS MIO! we have found our way to a pretty country.
MYSELF.- I really can see nothing so very bad in the country, which is by nature the richest in all Spain, and the most abundant.True it is that the generality of the inhabitants are wretchedly poor, but they themselves are to blame, and not the country.
DOMESTIC.- Cavalier, the country is a horrible one, say nothing to the contrary.We are all frightened, the young ladies, the young gentleman, and myself; even his worship is frightened, and says that we are come to this country for our sins.It rains every day, and this is almost the first time that we have seen the sun since our arrival, it rains continually, and one cannot step out without being up to the ankles in fango; and then, again, there is not a house to be found.
MYSELF.- I scarcely understand you.There appears to be no lack of houses in this neighbourhood.
DOMESTIC.- Excuse me, sir.His worship hired yesterday a house, for which he engaged to pay fourteen pence daily; but when the senorita saw it, she wept, and said it was no house, but a hog-sty, so his worship paid one day's rent and renounced his bargain.Fourteen pence a day! why, in our country, we can have a palace for that money.
MYSELF.- From what country do you come?