书城外语世界名牌大全(英汉双语版)
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第50章 皮具(3)

Bally not only pioneered the realm of shoe making, but also the worlds of retailing and advertising. The first retail store opened in 1881 on Londons prestigious New Bond Street.

BALLY Today: Responsibility and passion

The Bally name became synonymous with highly functional, quality shoes and famously graced the soles of dancers, soldiers, pioneers, sportsmen and even astronauts footwear.

Sir Edmund Hillary relied on Bally hiking boots for his first ever Mount Everest climb in 1953. Even NASA collaborated with Bally for the creation of the sole that took the famous “giant leap for mankind” in the boots of Neil Armstrong during the historic first moonwalk in 1969.

Bally heralds its 160th year anniversary with a celebratory range of shoes and bags for men and women. These eye-catching creations speak of the heritage and craftsmanship of Bally, with a hint of contemporary wit.

simultaneously [saimlteinisli] adv. 同时地

astronaut [‘strn:t] n. 宇航员,航天员

eye-catching [‘ai,kti] adj. 引人注目的;显着的

瑞士巴利:源自1851年的现代工艺

从1851年起,Bally已经将精湛的瑞士传统制作工艺运用于其丰富的奢华皮革产品中,Bally始终凭借“瑞士制造”的卓越品质和时尚优雅的独特风格而得到全球的广泛认可。

巴利:源于瑞士,着眼全球

不断创造全球奇迹的Bally创始人Carl Franz Bally,曾被员工亲切的称做“Bally 爸爸”。他的理念是:将优质精湛的瑞士传统手工艺应用于品种丰富的奢华皮件系列中,打造时尚耐穿,功能实用的产品。

巴利:奢侈品领域的先锋

巴利创造了年均390万双鞋的销售记录,这一惊人的数字也同时 激励着Bally始终将优雅奢华的设计概念融于产品中。

巴利不仅是制鞋方面的先锋,更是世界零售及广告领域的领先者,巴利于1881年开设第一家精品店,就位于伦敦着名的新邦德街。

巴利之今日:责任与热情

巴利鞋履已成为了功能实用,质量上乘,极具优雅的代名词,深受舞者、士兵、时尚爱好者,体育运动员和宇航员的喜爱。

1953年,Edmund Hillary穿着Bally Hiking登山靴首次征服了珠峰。甚至美国宇航局(NASA)也于1969年同Bally合作开发了特殊材料鞋底,运用于阿姆斯特朗首次登月的太空漫步靴,完成人类历史上的巨大跨越。

在Bally160周年庆典上,发布了涵盖了男士和女士鞋履和箱包的周年纪念系列,以诠释巴利的时尚设计理念。这些引人注目的作品是巴利传统手工制作在当代的传承。

4.(意大利)铁狮东尼 A.Testoni

品牌名片

品类:鞋、皮具

标志风格:优良制作、风格独特

创始人:阿米迪奥·铁狮东尼(Amedeo Testoni)

诞生地:意大利

诞生时间:1929年

铁狮东尼坚持以最精美的设计创造超值品质,以卓尔不凡的独特风格深受欧洲广大成功男士的青睐。

品牌阅读

The young Amedeo opened his first workshop in 1929, after having learnt the secrets of the most important Bolognese craftsmen. In the 50s he improved the Bolognese production to fulfill his dream of creating the most beautiful shoes in the world. To make the dream come true, he has carried the real essence of Italian craftsmanship to luxury markets throughout the world.

A.Testoni secret construction

The shoe is made, kept in the shape and then deconstructed. The upper is firstly taken apart and then put together and sewed to the sole using a revolutionary process, entirely hand-made, patented by A.Testoni. The result is a shoe as light as a feather that guarantees at the same time a perfect foot isolation from hot, cold and humid weather conditions.

The Materials-In Search of Absolute Quality

The great variety of leathers used that ranges from calfskin to ostrich, iguana and crocodile, constitutes a continuous challenge and commitment. It is necessary to select the best leathers, test their resistance and find experts capable of hand-sewing complex materials that even the most sophisticated machines are unable to cut.

The Bolognese Construction

The Bolognese construction is the feature which best defines the handicrafts values of an A.Testonis shoe. A special lining of very soft goatskin - hand sewn to the upper - fits the foot like a glove and gives remarkable elasticity to the front part of the shoe, whereas the rear part presents a harder structure in order to support the heel correctly.

The Norwegian Construction

The peculiar braided stitching, also called “the chain”, that contrasts the upper is entirely hand-made with rough linen twine. This ancient process derives from typical mountain boots conceived to face the most adverse weather conditions.

The Spiral

Originally, the spiral was used to hide the twine utilized for the sewing of the shoe bottom. In this ancient technique, a thin ribbon of leather was wound around the twine after each sewing point. A detail , applied to the sole hem, is today a sort of trademark of production in A.Testonis shoes.

From the wheeling and stamping of the soles to the trimming of the edges, from the delicate procedures of antique and shaded polishing to the final brushing: hemming, assemblage and finishing can involve at least 200 manual operations in an A.Testonis shoe.

Old methodologies, unique competences, very rigorous materials selection, research for quality without compromises, technical and esthetical tension towards new and original solutions: this is the philosophy of a company that has in itself and in its history; the requisites for a continuous innovative development and for the international recognition of its products and Italian style.

calfskin [‘kɑ:fskin] n. 小牛皮

ostrich [‘:strit, -] n. 鸵鸟

iguana [iɡwɑ:n] n. [动] 鬣蜥蜴

crocodile [‘krk,dail] n. 鳄鱼

methodology [,meθdldi] n. 方法学,方法论

1929年,年轻的阿米迪奥在掌握了博洛尼亚最重要制鞋匠的精髓后,开设了他的第一家店铺。50年代,在“创造世界上最美的鞋子”这一梦想的推动下,阿米迪奥在实践过程中改良了博洛尼亚式制鞋工艺,并且在这一过程中将意大利手工工艺理念带入世界奢侈消费品市场。

A.Testoni的制鞋秘诀

先将鞋子制作成型,然后分解开来,拆下的鞋面使用一种革新工序重新固定并缝合到鞋底上。该工序全部使用手工,如今已成为 A.Testoni的专利。通过这一方法制作出的鞋子如同羽毛一般轻巧,同时又将脚部与外部的炎热,寒冷和潮湿隔离。

材料——追求完美品质

使用种类繁多的皮革是一种持续的挑战,需要不断投入精力:从小牛皮到鸵鸟皮,到巨蜥皮,再到鳄鱼皮。所有工序包括选择最好的皮革,研究出它的用途,寻找有能力对复杂材料进行手工加工的能工巧匠,因为即使最精密的机器也无法裁剪那些复杂的材料。

手套式缝法

A.Testoni制鞋工艺之特色在于使用博洛尼亚制鞋工艺。鞋帮里手工缝制了极为柔软的山羊皮衬里,如同手套一般包裹双脚并使鞋的前部拥有非常高的弹性。而鞋后帮的结构则较坚实以正确承托脚跟。

挪威式缝法

使用未加工亚麻线纯手工缝制而成的特殊辫形或“链形”缝线与鞋面形成反差。这种古老的工艺起源于典型的登山鞋,用于应对各种恶劣的气候条件。

螺旋式缝法

原本是用于隐藏鞋底的缝线。在这个古老工艺中,一条极细的皮条交织于每一针针脚周围。这一细节应用到鞋底边缘之后,在一定意义上就变成了 A.Testoni制鞋的 “商标”。

从鞋底的滚压和模压到其边缘的设定,从精妙的皮革古法花式上光到最终的刷拭:A.Testoni制鞋中,锁边,缝合和整饰这些工艺可包含两百道不同的工序。

古老的方法,一脉相传的卓越技艺,严苛的材料选择,对质量的执着追求,为了获得与众不同的款式而在技术和美学上的不懈坚持:正是基于这一传统文化,铁狮东尼的品牌得以持续不断地创新其产品和意大利风格,以确保其国际知名度。