书城外语世界名牌大全(英汉双语版)
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第46章 珠宝首饰(8)

Innovation:

The Minaudière precious case

With its combination of grace and ingenuity, the Minaudière precious case bag pays homage to the essence of femininity. In the Roaring Twenties, ladies began carrying their beauty accessories with them in a vanity case. While visiting his socialite friend Florence Jay Gould, Charles Arpels was surprised to see her tossing her lipstick, powder case, cigarettes and lighter into a Lucky Strike cigarette tin. From this encounter the idea for the Minaudière precious case was born.

The Zip necklace

Invented in late 19th century America as a fastening for boots, the humble zipper seems far removed from the realm of sophistication. Yet despite its humble origins, it has inspired one of Van Cleef &; Arpels most iconic pieces. The Zip necklace blends humor and refinement by reappropriating an everyday object into a radically different context.

This astonishing feat in jewelry-making can be credited to the Duchess of Windsor. Circa 1938, she suggested to Renée Puissant - the Maisons artistic director and daughter of Alfred Van Cleef - that she should create a piece based on the zip fastener. Crafted in round and baguette-cut diamonds mounted in platinum, the necklace was not produced until 1951. An outstanding technical achievement, it soon achieved iconic status.

Extraordinary Dials

The Extraordinary Dials truly epitomize the Poetry of Time that inspires Van Cleef &; Arpels watch-making philosophy. Hidden behind these amazing works of arts is a story exploring a new facet of the legacy and universe of the Maison.

For Van Cleef &; Arpels, a timepiece is not just a utilitarian object. It is composed of emotions conveyed through the delicacy of its design and the extraordinary craftsmanship involved in its creation. The mechanism of a timepiece is its heart. But its dial is its soul and, as such, should be gifted with life.

Dials at Van Cleef &; Arpels are more than still images. They should evolve over time and change with it. More than anything, they should tell a story in perpetual motion to their owners. These are Extraordinary Dials.

Van Cleef &; Arpels has applied all its savoir-faire in the fields of inlaying, stone selection, cutting and setting, lacquering, hand engraving and enameling to the creation of exquisitely precious dreamlike dials.

Limits are expanded, new crafts are mastered. They all contribute to the aura and fascination that surrounds a single concept: the Extraordinary.

asymmetrical [,simetrik,-kl] adj. 非对称的;不均匀的

baguette-cut diamond狭长方形钻石

epitomize [ipitmaiz] v. 成为……的缩影

低调的优雅、精致、创新与革新,以及不对称设计……构成梵克雅宝的美之魂。1906年,百年珠宝世家梵克雅宝创立,并在芳登广场22号开设专卖店。

创新之作:

Minaudiere百宝匣

Minaudière百宝匣集优雅与精巧于一身,体现了女性魅力的精髓。在“咆哮的20世纪20年代”,女士们开始将美妆用品都装在一只化妆盒里。有一次,查尔斯·雅宝(Charles Arpels)在拜访社交名媛佛罗伦斯·杰·古尔德(Florence Jay Gould)时,惊讶地发现她把口红、粉盒、香烟和打火机一股脑儿塞进一只好彩香烟盒里。创作Minaudière百宝匣的灵感便由此诞生。

Zip拉链项链

拉链本是19世纪末期美国人为了扣紧靴子而发明的,不起眼的拉链似乎跟优雅没有丝毫关联。然而,尽管出身卑微,它却是Van Cleef &; Arpels梵克雅宝最具代表性作品的灵感之源。Zip拉链项链将日常用品放置于全新情境下,融幽默与精巧于一体。

最初提出这项珠宝制作惊人创意的是温莎公爵夫人。1939年,她建议Van Cleef &; Arpels梵克雅宝的艺术总监、阿尔弗莱德·梵克之女Renée Puissant以拉链为原型创作一款珠宝。1951年,以铂金为底镶嵌圆形和长方形切割钻石的Zip拉链项链诞生了。因其杰出的技术突破,Zip拉链项链也很快在高级珠宝领域中取得了标志性的地位。

Extraordinary Dials非凡表盘系列

Extraordinary Dials非凡表盘系列是时间的诗篇的缩影,而后者激发了梵克雅宝的制表哲学。这些令人惊叹不已的艺术作品背后蕴藏着一个探索梵克雅宝百年传承和创新的传奇故事。

对于梵克雅宝而言,钟表并不只是一个功能性的物件,它更承载着深厚情感,来自创作过程中的精巧设计与非凡工艺。 机械是钟表的心脏,表盘是它的灵魂,因此表盘应该是有生命的。

梵克雅宝的表盘不只是静止的图像,它们会随着时光流转而变化。更最重要的是,它们会在永恒的运行中向主人诉说着故事。这就是Extraordinary Dials非凡表盘系列。

梵克雅宝将其所有精湛工艺运用在这些如梦似幻的珍贵表盘上,包括镶嵌、宝石挑选、切割和镶嵌、漆艺、手工雕刻和珐琅工艺。

梵克雅宝不断冲破限制,掌握和运用创新工艺。 这一切努力所展现的灵气与魅力都围绕着一个概念: 非凡。

8.(英国)格拉夫 Graff

品牌名片

品类:珠宝

标志风格:高雅、精巧

创始人:劳伦斯·格拉夫(Laurence Graff)

诞生地:英国

诞生时间:1960年

格拉夫意味着世界上最难以置信的宝石、钻石的品质,其设计、工艺均是最顶级的。

品牌阅读

The founding of Graff Diamonds in 1960 by Laurence Graff marked the start of an extraordinary journey spanning over five decades, which continues to this day.

Throughout its rich history, Graff is said to have handled more diamonds of notable rarity and beauty than any other jeweler, and to this day continues to inspire and excite the worlds most discerning clientele with its jeweler.

Graff is more than just a name - it is Laurence Graffs lasting legacy, whose passion and distinctive style has now been passed down to a new generation of designers and craftsmen, who continue to collaborate each day to make the worlds incomparable jewelry.