书城外语世界名牌大全(英汉双语版)
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第41章 珠宝首饰(3)

20世纪40年代,珠宝的制作发生了根本的改变。镶嵌钻石的铂金被镶嵌五彩宝石的黄金所取代。这些因素受到了二战的影响。几何设计变得更加流畅、自然。

战后经济复苏,珠宝再度盛行,珍贵的白金及珍贵宝石广泛运用于珠宝设计中,尤其是30年代占据统治地位的最时尚的宝石-钻石。顶级珠宝仍带有法国学院派风格,但与战前相比,图案更鲜明,线条也更柔软。50年代,电影《罗马假日》和《甜蜜生活》,画刊、电视、狗仔队风靡世界。与此同时Via Condotti 10号店取得了巨大的成功,这从无数名人进出店铺的照片中便可以看出。诸多明星,像Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren 或Ingrid Bergman,都曾佩戴宝格丽珠宝出席各大公共活动。50年代末,宝格丽更加追求浑圆柔和的线条,开始研究蛋面切割法以代替多刻面切割宝石,树立了独特的宝格丽初期风格。

50年代末,宝格丽设计开始摆脱巴黎式风格,创建自己的独特风格。从过去的非对称花式图案转变为强调紧凑对称外形,但是同样以黄金材质为主;从传统的绿宝石、红宝石和蓝宝石(三色系)与珍贵的钻石搭配。在接下来的数十年里,宝格丽选用极具品牌个性的颜色搭配,带给人们全新的视觉体验。起初,主要使用蓝宝石,后来由于各种宝石的灵活应用而变得更加醒目。

20世纪70年代,宝格丽家族第三代传人接管了公司业务,为宝格丽品牌注入了创新活力。他们将宝格丽家族的制造传统与新的技术和理念完美结合,这从宝格丽的大量设计图案便可看出。有些优雅设计是受到了烟花的灵感激发,有些则是从东方元素中寻找灵感,还有些灵感源自光学艺术或流行艺术,星条旗图案珠宝便是代表之一。然而无论搭配何种价值的宝石,黄金仍然是贯穿始终的主题。通过黄金的运用,宝格丽允许在任何一件珠宝,即便是价格昂贵的珠宝,都可以在非正式场合佩戴;传统观念中,黄金适合白天佩戴,而铂金和白金则适合晚上佩戴。70年代,宝格丽陆续在纽约、日内瓦、蒙地卡罗和巴黎开设了分店。

在接下来的设计中,宝格丽深受罗马金匠学派和希腊主义的影响,并于1982年成功地推出了Parentesi系列。80年代,第一个模块化顶级珠宝系列诞生并成为时代标志,其设计一直被广泛模仿。

“你不能总沉浸在过去的荣耀中,这是很不明智的行为。要想获得成功,你必须反思过去、立足现在、展望未来。这不仅是一个严峻挑战,更是对所有人能力的重大考验”。这是Nicola Bulgari于1995年曾说过的一段话。

3.(法国)尚美 Chaumet

品牌名片

品类:珠宝、腕表

标志风格:自然、精致

创始人:马里·艾蒂安·尼托(Marie Etienne Nitot)

诞生地:法国

诞生时间:1780年

尚美是法国LVMH集团旗下品牌跨越两个世纪依然展现璀璨

光芒。

品牌阅读

The history of Chaumet dates back to 1780 and is closely interwoven with the history of France. Over five centuries, Paris has been celebrated for the magnificence of its jewelers. It was in this tradition that the founder of Chaumet, Marie Etienne Nitot, distinguished himself in the late 18th century.

The wedding of Napoleon and Josephine de Beauharnais, and later with the Archiduchesse Marie-Louise de Habsbourg-Lorraine, niece of Queen Marie-Antoinette, brought Chaumet numerous sumptuous orders. Nitot became the most famous jeweler in Europe and built up a loyal and prestigious clientele.

After the fall of the Empire, Nitots successors devoted themselves to Romantic jewelry inspired by the decorative arts of the Italian Renaissance and of 17th century France. All the appeal and expertise of the firm also attracted a clientele composed of painters, sculptors, writers and theater actors.

By 1853, Paris had regained its place as the center of the world for luxury and fashion. A propitious atmosphere reigned for the creation of jewelry to be worn by day and by night with sumptuous evening dresses.

With steamships offering a faster mode of travel, Indian princes developed a taste for the pleasures of Europe. They were great collectors of jewelry and brought their pieces set with gemstones to the Place Vendome to have them re-set in light, supple platinum settings.The most magnificent stones were primarily reserved for men, as indicated in the famous pair of pear-cut diamonds Chaumet purchased in 1911 for the maharaja of Indore.

Chaumet created simplified designs contained within rigid geometric outlines compatible with the boyish looks of the 1920s and the more feminine silhouette of the 1930s. This style called Art Deco from the Exposition des Arts Decoratifs held in Paris in 1925, is characterized by strong contrasts of materials, colors and the cuts of the precious and semi-precious stones used.

After the 30s, responding to the continuous social, economic and artistic changes, Chaumet has maintained its legendary reputation. Design is determined by the good taste of the contemporary Parisienne always in search of something new, different and gorgeous. Easy to wear, gold jewelry appears in a concept store.

This knowledge has continuously been passed down since two centuries, through every “chef datelier”. The Chaumet workshop located 12, place Vendome, bears witness to this expertise.

In 2013, French actresses decided to wear Chaumet jewellery and illuminated the 66th edition of Cannes International Film Festival, adorned with parures from the house: Audrey Tautou, host of the Opening & Closing Ceremony; Bérénice Bejo, awarded with the title of Best Actress for Le Passé (The Past), directed by Asghar Farhadi; Ludivine Sagnier, member of the Jury for Un Certain Regard; Laetitia Casta, while she handed over the Best Actor award; Alma Jodorowsky, actress from the Palme dOr movie La Vie dAdèle, directed by Abdellatif Kechiche.

by day and by night日日夜夜

maharaja [,mɑ(h)rɑd] n. (印度的)王公

尚美,创始于1780年,与法国的历史密不可分。五个世纪以来,巴黎始终以手工珠宝杰作而闻名。创始人马里·艾蒂安·尼托于18世纪末开始崭露头角。

拿破仑一世及其两任皇后:约瑟芬·德博阿尔内与玛莉安东尼皇后的侄女玛莉露易丝·阿斯部洛林,为 Chaumet 带来了可观的珠宝订单。从此,尼托(Nitot)成为了全欧洲最知名的珠宝商,也同时赢得了许多忠实的顶级珠宝客户的青睐。

帝国结束后,尼托的继承者延续其灵感来源于意大利文艺复兴运动和法国 17 世纪装饰艺术的浪漫主义珠宝风格。尚美作品独有的文化和精湛的工艺吸引了大批文艺界的忠实顾客:画家、雕塑家、作家和明星。

从 1853 年起,巴黎重新变成五彩不夜城,成为国际奢侈品和时尚的高地。当时的环境十分有利于珠宝的创作,为美丽的舞裙锦上添花。

蒸汽轮船加速旅行的进程,印度王子飘洋过海来到欧洲游玩。他们是珠宝收藏大家,把自家的宝石带到芳登广场,让珠宝师们在上面添加铂金框架。最美丽的宝石通常是由男人带走的——比如 1911 年,尚美就为印度王子特制了一对梨形钻石。

20世纪20年代的尚美作品,设计充满了简约的造型,以符合当时的“中性风”,直到30年代才再次转化为比较女性化的风格。这种风格称为装饰艺术,于1925年巴黎世界博览会上达到了顶峰,其凸显材质色彩及宝石和半宝石切割工艺的强烈对比。

30年代过后,尚美在延续其传统风格之余,为作品再添现代化的一笔,充满巴黎高雅情趣,且一直持续寻找新鲜创意。尚美最新推出黄金系列珠宝,容易搭配,与时俱进。

位于芳登广场 12 号的尚美高级珠宝工作坊,自1780 年开始便不断将独家技艺代代相传,守卫着尚美的百年历史传承。

2013年,多位法国女演员均佩戴尚美的珠宝出席第66届戛纳国际电影节。柯德莉塔图(Audrey Tautou)担任电影节的开幕及闭幕礼主持。Bérénice Béjo 凭《Le Passe》 荣获本年度康城最佳女主角大奖。Ludivine Sagnier 担任电影《 一种关注》(Un Certain Regard)的评审团成员之一。Laetitia Casta 担任最佳男主角的颁奖嘉宾。Alma Jodorowsky 为Abdellatif Kechiche 执导的金棕榈电影La Vie dAdèle 担任女主角。

4.(英国)杰拉德 Garrard

品牌名片

品类:珠宝、腕表

标志风格:尊贵、大气

创始人:罗伯特·杰拉德(Robert Garrard)

诞生地:英国

诞生时间:1735年

杰拉德品牌标志由皇冠及其名称组成,体现了杰拉德与皇室贵族的密切联系及其举足轻重的地位。

品牌阅读

Gerrard was born in 1735 and has been given the good reputation “Crown Jeweller ” by queen Victoria. It has ever designed coronation crowns for the royal family for many times, which shows its importance. In recent years, Gerrard successfully marched into the youth market.