书城外语世界名牌大全(英汉双语版)
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第3章 尖端品牌(2)

In February of 1955, Gabrielle Chanel launched the iconic 2.55 quilted handbag, naming the style after the date of its creation. Combining leather and gold chain, she invented a supple new style of shoulder strap that was uniquely strong and light, and that allowed a womans hands to remain free.

The fascination with CHANEL grew, as the most celebrated stars of the time-Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Fonda, Jackie Kennedy, Grace Kelly and Jeanne Moreau-wore the latest fashions from CHANEL.

The House of CHANEL expanded with the introduction of its first Ready-to-Wear collection and the worldwide distribution of its line of iconic accessories in 1978.

In 1987, the first line of CHANEL Watches was launched with the creation of the PREMIRE watch, designed by Jacques Helleu. The dial of the watch recalled the shape of both place Vendme and the stopper of the iconic N°5 bottle.

In 1993, a milestone was reached with the launch of the first CHANEL Fine Jewelry collection in the heart of the place Vendme in Paris. In 1997, CHANEL established 18 place Vendme as the home of CHANEL Fine Jewelry.

In 2002, CHANEL acquired eight Parisian speciality ateliers to establish PARAFFECTION, a company consisting of Desrues (metalworker), Lemarié (flower and feather craftsmen), Maison Michel (milliner), Maison Lesage (embroiderer), Massaro (shoemaker), Goossens (goldsmith), Guillet (floral accessory expert) and Atelier Montex (embroiderer). In doing so, CHANEL supported the historic arts, and preserved the unique expertise of fashions traditional craftsmen.

femininity [,femninti] n. 温柔;柔弱性;女子本性

at the height of在……的顶峰或鼎盛时期

expertise [,eksp:ti:z] n. 专门技术

嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿于1883年8月19日出生于法国索缪一个寒微的家庭,狮子座。1910年,她在巴黎康朋街21号开设了自己的第一家女帽店,以“香奈儿时尚”为名,制作帽子。她的设计受到当时最着名的法国女演员的垂青,也为她带来了美誉。嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿简洁优雅的着装风格引起轰动,很快被整个巴黎竞相效仿。

1913年,嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿在法国杜维埃开设了一家服饰店,推出运动服饰系列。她设计的针织服装具有革命性的意义,改变了女性与自己的身体以及生活方式的关系,并立即大获成功。1915年,声誉卓着的香奈儿在法国比亚利兹开设了自己的第一家个人品牌时装屋。

1921年,香奈儿推出自己的第一款香水,标志性的“香奈儿N°5”。香奈儿N°5由前沙皇宫廷调香师恩尼斯·鲍调制,之所以叫做5号,是因为这是他呈给香奈儿女士的第5款香水。香奈儿N°5是永恒经典的象征,至今仍是女性之美的极致标志。1924年,香奈儿推出第一个化妆品系列,以唇彩和蜜粉为主打。同年成立“香奈儿香水公司”,致力于生产独一无二的香水和美容用品。

20世纪40年代,嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿的声誉达到鼎盛期。她雇用了4000名工人,在巴黎康朋街拥有5家精品店。而随着第二次世界大战爆发,香奈儿公司被迫关闭。康朋街的5家店中,只有康朋街31号仍继续营业,因为巴黎人和美国士兵仍然对香水和配饰有大量的需求。

71岁时,香奈儿重返高级女装界。对当时的时尚潮流倍感厌倦的她,用自己独创的作品掀起了第二次时装革命。

1955年2月,嘉柏丽尔·香奈儿推出标志性的2.55菱格纹手袋,并以诞生的年月为其命名。她将皮革与金色链带相结合,发明了一种全新风格的柔韧肩带,既结实又轻巧,可以将女性的双手解放出来。

随着当时最着名的明星——伊丽莎白·泰勒、简·方达、杰奎琳·肯尼迪、格蕾丝·凯利和让娜·莫罗纷纷穿上香奈儿的最新时装,人们对香奈儿的迷恋也与日俱增。

1978年,高级成衣诞生。香奈儿品牌拓展业务,推出第一个高级成衣系列,并进一步向全球推广标志性的配饰系列。

1987年,香奈儿推出第一款腕表系列PREMIèRE ,由贾克·海卢设计。表盘形似芳登广场以及标志性的香奈儿N°5香水瓶瓶盖的轮廓。

1993年,香奈儿迎来全新里程碑,在巴黎芳登广场核心地带推出第一个香奈儿高级珠宝系列。1997年,香奈儿在芳登广场18号设立高级珠宝总店。

2002年,香奈儿将八家巴黎高级手工坊收入旗下,成立了PARAFFECTION子公司,包括:Desrues服饰珠宝坊,Lemarié山茶花及羽饰坊,Michel制帽坊,Lesage刺绣坊,Massaro鞋履坊,Goossens金银饰坊,Guillet花饰坊,以及Montex刺绣坊。通过这一方法,香奈儿不仅为传统的手工艺提供了支持,同时也保存了传统工匠的独特技术。

3.(法国)都彭 S.T. Dupont

品牌名片

品类:皮具、打火机、书写工具、腕表、香水

标志风格:高贵、大气

创始人:

西蒙·迪索-都彭(Simon Tissot-Dupont)

诞生地:法国

诞生时间:1872年

都彭的品牌标志就是S.T.Dupont 。如今的都彭更是富有和品位的标志。

品牌阅读

1872: Birth of a French Luxury House. Simon Tissot-Dupont, the dynastys founder, was just 25. He was born in Savoy to a family of millers. He was an enterprising and passionate young man who was determined to succeed in Paris. He recruited several talented craftsmen and established a prestigious leather goods workshop. In particular, he manufactured wallets and “maroquins”, the attaché-cases of the time, bearing the initials of senior civil servants. He was rapidly successful among Parisian high society. Soon, he became the official supplier to the Magasins du Louvre, which was a reference in the world for luxury accessories at the time.

By the end of the 19th century, royalty, nobility and celebrities were the most frequent travelers, embarking on journeys that would take several weeks or months. This required an array of different trunks and travel cases.

The S.T. Dupont travel cases, made individually to suit the different needs of clients, became the travel essentials for any person of quality, who would never travel without one! These unique masterpieces were made with the rarest materials and fabrics and each one was meticulously designed. These travel cases became a luxury part of each travelers home and a priceless talisman to take on their journeys.

In the beginning of the roaring 1920s, André and Lucien Dupont, Simons sons, started to innovate: they created sumptuous travel cases, produced as one-of-a-kind pieces. In their salons on Rue Dieu in Paris, the Dupont brothers received the cream of international society. Their loyal customers included: the Maharajah of Patiala, who used to make sumptuous gifts to his one hundred or so favorites, Baron Maurice de Rothschild, the Duke of Kent, to name a few. The Duke of Windsor used to advise Lucien Dupont, and Al Capone discreetly dispatched his second-in-command to place an order.

Cartier was also a client for Paris and New York, so was Aspreys in London, since the Dupont travel cases were truly unique. “Strive for more beauty, for greater luxury”, said Lucien Dupont. It was the era of euphoria of the years between the two wars, and the intensely creative Arts Deco period.

The last travel case, in lavender blue leather, was made in 1947, as a wedding gift for Princess Elisabeth of England, the future Queen. How much did an S.T.Dupont travel case cost The employees at the time replied: the price of a house.

In 1921, The two Tissot Dupont brothers, André and Lucien, bought their own Htel Particulier located at 8 bis, rue Dieu in Paris and catered to an ever-growing demand for S.T. Dupont luxury trunks and travel cases.