11.（意大利）沛纳海Panerai
品牌名片
品类：腕表
标志风格：超大表面
创始人：乔凡尼·沛纳海（Giovanni Panerai）
诞生地：意大利
诞生时间：1860年
沛纳海1860年在佛罗伦萨诞生，自19世纪以来技艺日益精湛，成为意大利海军的测量及精密仪器供应商。品牌定位为运动、休闲领域中的高档腕表。
品牌阅读
Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmakers shop on Ponte delle Grazie in Florence in 1860： both shop and workshop， and also the citys first watchmaking school. Officine Panerais history begins here. The shop later moved to its current location in the Palazzo Arcivescovile in Piazza San Giovanni， changing its name to “Orologeria Svizzera” at the beginning of the twentieth century.
To meet the military needs of the Royal Italian Navy， which it had already been supplying with high precision instruments for a number of years， Officine Panerai created Radiomir， a radium-based powder that gave luminosity to the dials of sighting instruments and devices. Reference to the name “Radiomir” is documented in the supplement to the patent filed in France on 23 March 1916. The substances high visibility and the paints excellent underwater adhesive qualities immediately made the radium paste a key element in Officine Panerais production. The Radiomir patent was the first of the many patents filed to mark Panerais history of innovation.
On the eve of the Second World War， Panerai created the first prototypes of the model now known as “Radiomir” for the frogman commandos of the First Submarine Group Command of the Royal Italian Navy. Todays Radiomir retains many of the prototypes features： a large and cushion-shaped steel case (47mm)， luminescent numerals and indices， wire lugs welded to the case， a hand-wound mechanical movement and a water-resistant strap long enough to be worn over a diving suit. The Navys historical archives record that just ten prototypes were produced in 1936.
In 1943， Officine Panerai presented the prototype of a model specifically designed for deck officers： the Mare Nostrum， a two-counter chronograph. It is thought that only two or three of these watches were ever made， and all that remains of them are some photographs and a single example discovered in 2005. The research and planning for one of the fundamental steps in the Florentine brands design began in the early 1940s： the crown-protecting device， a sort of steel half-moon designed to prevent infiltrations of water into the case and to protect the crown seal from the stresses of winding.
In 1956， Panerai developed a Radiomir watch known as the “Egiziano” for the Egyptian Navy. It is characterized by its exceptional size (case diameter of 60 millimetres) and strength： it has great water resistance and a marked bezel for calculating immersion time. The patent for the crown-protecting bridge， which previously appeared in Panerai prototypes and supply documents provided to the Italian Navy， was filed in the same year， thereby becoming both the distinguishing mark of the Luminor models and of the DNA of the Florentine companys brand.
Giuseppe Panerai， son of Guido， dies. The management of the family business， along with the Italian Navy supply contracts long covered by military secrecy， passed to engineer Dino Zei， who changed the company name from “G.Panerai &； Figlio” to “Officine Panerai S.r.L.”， the name that had appeared on the very first models. Another chapter in Officine Panerais production related to the instruments created for and supplied to the Italian Navy for many years - compasses and wrist depth gauges， as well as pressure compensation underwater torches providing greater resistance in the depths of the sea.
The year of 2002 was a milestone for Officine Panerai， with the opening of the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchtel， Switzerland. Fine Swiss watchmaking， exclusive design and know-how came together in a single location where planning， development and continuous research offered new technical and functional perspectives. Officine Panerai also opened up to the Orient with its first Asian boutique， located in the prestigious Landmark Princes Building in Hong Kong.
In 2005， Officine Panerai launched its first in-house movement， the P.2002： a hand-wound calibre with GMT function and an eight-day power reserve， as in the Angelus movements used in the 1940s. The calibre took its name from the year in which Officine Panerai inaugurated its production plant， a tribute to the watchmaking art of the Florentine brand.
On the occasion of the 400th anniversary of his first celestial observations， Officine Panerai dedicated a triptych of exceptionally complex models to the Tuscan genius Galileo Galilei： LAstronomo， Lo Scienziato and the Jupiterium clock. Panerais Jupiterium model is a planetary clock with perpetual calendar which shows， from a geocentric perspective， the positions in the celestial sphere of the Sun， the Moon and Jupiter with the so-called Galilean Moons， i.e. its four main satellites， now known as Io， Europa， Ganymede and Callisto， observed for the first time by Galileo Galilei in 1610， thanks to the invention of the telescope. Officine Panerai launches the in-house P.999 movement and the first Panerai Composite watch at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie.
luminescent [，ljumnesnt] adj. 夜光的
bezel [bez()l] n. 宝石的斜面
in the depths of在……的深处
1860年，乔凡尼·沛纳海（Giovanni Panerai）在佛罗伦萨创立钟表店：这家钟表店身兼店铺和工厂，同时还是城中第一家制表学校。沛纳海的历史由此开始。 这家钟表店在二十世纪初更名为“Orologeria Svizzera”（瑞士钟表店），之后搬迁至圣乔瓦尼广场的圣芝奥凡尼广场内，至今仍是沛纳海佛罗伦萨总部所在地。
当时沛纳海已成为意大利皇家海军供应商多年，为其提供高精度的计时工具。根据军方的要求，沛纳海创制出Radiomir，一种以镭为基础的发光材质，作为仪器表盘的夜光涂剂之用。 有关“Radiomir”这一名称的文献记载见于1916年3月23日在法国填写的专利文件附录中。其高可视性及漆面在水中出色的粘附性立即让这种以镭为基础的涂剂成为沛纳海生产过程中不可或缺的一种材质。 Radiomir的专利成为第一批由沛纳海研发的专利技术，由此展开了沛纳海源远流长的创新历史。
第二次世界大战前夕，沛纳海开发出“Radiomir”腕表的首个试用品，供意大利皇家海军第一潜水部队指挥部的蛙人部队使用。 这款表的众多特点仍然保留至今：阔大的精钢枕型表壳，夜光数字和时标，线型表耳与表壳焊接相连，手动上链机械式机芯，加长防水表带，可佩戴于潜水衣之外。 海军的历史档案记载在1936年仅生产了10枚原型腕表。